只显示未读信息
&&米格29战斗机模型图片
米格29战斗机模型图片/米格29战斗机模型样板图
铁路模型制作模型工业模型,铁路模型制作模型工业模型图片
猜您感兴趣看的产品图片
摘要：供应湖南省浏阳河仿真模型有限公司始创于1998年3月，是国内业内知名的模型专业生产厂
摘要：供应仿真模型，电力模型，电厂模型浏阳河模型，30年制作经验，五次技术革新，九项全国第
摘要：供应电厂模型，水利模型，仿真模型浏阳河模型，30年制作经验，五次技术革新，九项全国第
摘要：供应仿真模型，电力模型，电厂模型
浏阳河模型，30年制作经验，五次技术革新，九项全
摘要：供应水利模型，电厂模型，仿真模型浏阳河模型，30年制作经验，五次技术革新，九项全国第
摘要：供应市面上常见的住宅模型建筑比例有1/100、1/130、1/150等等，通过适当调
摘要：供应桥梁模型，模型厂，模型公司浏阳河模型，30年制作经验，五次技术革新，九项全国第一
摘要：供应仿真模型，电力模型，电厂模型浏阳河模型，30年制作经验，五次技术革新，九项全国第
摘要：供应电力模型，仿真模型，电厂模型
浏阳河模型，30年制作经验，五次技术革新，九项全
&赞助商链接：
标签：米格29战斗机模型图片&&
米格29战斗机模型图片描述：东莞飞机模型//东莞飞机模型厂家 1:48 米格29本公司从事合金模型玩具精品行业已十年。发展历程由2001年至2005年间，我们从事国际品牌产品的强强合作开发打样工作。期间主要是帮助国内外品牌客人研发新的产品（商品）包括但不限于玩具、模型......
咨询电话：6
联系人：冼思惠
供应商： && 米格29战斗机模型图片链接：/pics.html
(转摘请注明出处) &&
|提示：左右点击翻图
米格29战斗机模型图片转发分享（<font color="#FF）：
米格29战斗机模型图片的相关推荐
赞助商链接：
地区厂家：你可能正需要这些专注正版设计作品交易平台我图网创办于2008年，老品牌值得信赖目前拥有会员15,569,032人，作品总数2,411,798张在线客服:热线电话:400-600-8526客户指南安全认证Copyright & 我图网沪ICP备号 用时：0.0160秒&V
版本：1.1若您发现您的权利被侵害，请发起知识产权投诉。网站已有的重复作品修改站内设计师的原创作品色情、暴力、政治敏感话题其它原因请提供原作品链接米格7模型飞机图纸_图文攻略_全通关攻略_高分攻略_百度攻略
精彩内容，尽在百度攻略：Mikoyan-Gurevich MiG-7Construction NotesThe Mikoyan-Gurevich MiG-7 was a World War II era,Russian, fighter.
Its fuselage was similar to the morepopular MiG-1 and MiG-3.
However, its wing was mademuch larger to fulfill its role as a high altitude interceptor.This increased wing area makes it an ideal subject for1/12 scale combat.精彩内容，尽在百度攻略：The model’s outline is true to 1/12 scale with the exceptionthat the wing has been enlarged by 5%, further improvingits flying characteristics.
This makes it legal for both the2105 and 2610 classes of RCCA combat.Corrugated plastic, known by the trade name Coroplast(R),is the primary construction material.
While notindestructible, this does produce a tough airplane that willwithstand all but the most brutal mid-airs and crashes.
Inaddition the material is extremely inexpensive and lendsitself to fast assembly.PLANS AND TEMPLATES精彩内容，尽在百度攻略：This plane is built differently from most R/C andas such has unconventional plans.
Instead of views thatyou build the model over, there are a series of templatesthat you cut out and trace onto the plastic.
The plansconsist of three “D” size (22 X 34) sheets.
A “.dxf” file isprovided for those with CAD systems and access to largeformat plotters.
A “.pdf” file is also provided containing thethree full-size sheets.
You can print these at reduced(letter) size as a guide to the larger plans, send them to alarge format printer, or print small and enlarge.
The plansare also available as tiled “.pdf” files for each sheet.
Eachsheet is divided into eight letter sized (8
X 11) pages.You can print them out and tape the pages together tomake the plans.
It’s more work, but it’s cheap!
Whatevermethod you use, take care that the printer, plotter, orcopier does not distort or incorrectly size the plan.
Eachsheet has a 6-inch scale drawn on it – check it with a ruler.MATERIALS AND GLUESCoroplast(R) is inexpensive (about $7.50 for an 4 X 8 footsheet) but can be a little hard to find.
Try local sign supplyshops, artist supply stores, or industrial supply houses.On the web:
has more informationand numbers to call is a large distributor.You will need a 2 X 3 ft. piece of 2mm material for thewings and a 20 X 30 inch piece of 4mm material for thefuse and tail.
With careful planning you can build sixplanes from one 4 X 8 foot sheet of each thickness.
Youcan buy green Coroplast for the common MiG-7 schemeor white for the Russian winter paint scheme.
If you havethe 4 X 8 sheets cut to 2 X 4 for UPS shipping, make surethe corrugation pipes (or “flutes”) run the LONG (4 ft)dimension.Most glues don’t stick very well to Coroplast(R), so if youanything use other than the suggested glues, make sureto test them first.
I use Dap Weldwood(R) Contact cementfor most of the assembly – spread it on each surface, wait15 minutes (or up to 2 hours), and stick the parts together.“GOOP” or “Shoe Goo” is good for visible areas and thosethat need a little filling.
Polyurethane glue (like Elmer’s“Probond”) is used for strength in the wing joiners and thefirewall.
This glue requires moisture to activate andexpands as it sets.CONSTRUCTIONStarting with the 4mm parts on sheet 3, cut the templatesfrom the plans.
Arrange the templates on the 4mmCoroplast sheet making sure that the pipe directions areas indicated.
Temporarily tape the templates down andtrace their outline with a fine point permanent marker.Use a pin to mark the intersections of internal lines andconnect the marks after removing the templates.
Makesure to make a second copy of the Aileron and SaddleDoubler parts.Cut out the Fin and Stabilizer parts using a sharp X-actoknife. Glue a stop onto a #11 knife blade so that the pointwill only penetrate through the top surface of theCoroplast.
Use this to slice away the bottom of acorrugation pipe at the stabilizer hinge line, leaving the topsurface in tact to act as a hinge.
Glue the Fin to theStabilizer with GOOP, making sure that the tab on the finfits fully into the slot in the stab.
Set the assembly up onsmall boxes or blocks to insure that the parts areperpendicular, and allow to dry.FUSELAGEUse the special knife, described above, to cut through thesurface of each pipe in the indicated areas of the fuselage.Make sure you do not cut all the way through.
I usuallymake these cuts, with the aid of a straight edge, beforecutting the fuselage outline from the sheet.
Cut out thefuselage outline.
You can use a standard hole punch tomake the
1/4 ” holes for the wing hold down dowels.Cut the fuselage former templates from sheet 1 of theplans and glue them onto wood with rubber cement or 3M77.
The Firewall is 3/16 hard plywood.
F5A and F5B arestiff 1/16 balsa.
The other formers can be 1/8 light ply ortwo laminated sheets of
1/16 balsa glued with the grain at90 degrees.
The latter is lighter and stronger, but takes alittle longer to make.
After cutting out the wood, you canleave the paper in place or remove it.
If you do removethe plan paper, make sure to mark the vertical center linesfor alignment later.
Glue F5A and F5B to the top of F5, asindicated on the plans.
Drill holes in the firewall for the精彩内容，尽在百度攻略：engine mount, throttle linkage, and fuel lines.Test fit the formers into the fuselage plastic making surethat the plastic curves smoothly over the formers’ curves.Now, lay the fuse flat and apply contact cement along allthe former alignment lines.
Spread the cement at least
1/4 inch wide to allow for minor misalignment.
Apply contactcement to the formers.
I use a small squeeze bottle toapply the glue to the former edges.
Let the glue dry for atleast 15 minutes.
Then, stick the firewall and F2 to thecenterline and carefully pull the plastic part way aroundthem.
Add F3 and F5, again making sure the centerlinemark on the formers aligns with the centerline of theplastic.
Continue pulling the fuse sides up and intocontact with the formers.
Insert F4 and F6 to complete thefold up.
Wrap masking tape around the firewall, F2 andF5 to pull the plastic tight against the formers.
1/4 hardwood wing hold down dowels.
Glue these securely toF2 and F5.
We will return to the fuselage after the wingassembly.2MM PARTS精彩内容，尽在百度攻略：Cut out the templates on sheet 2 of the plans.
Arrange,trace, and cut out the 2mm parts.
Be sure to make aLEFT and a RIGHT wing by flipping the template over(print side down).
Again transfer the guide lines and foldlines onto the plastic.
And again, make sure the pipes areorientated as indicated.The fold line on the wings runs perpendicular to the pipes.Crease (but do not cut) the line with a pointy but bluntobject (like a Philips head screwdriver).
Another tool thatworks well is the roller used for repairing screens.
Use astraight edge to insure the crease line is straight.
Fold thewing over a table top edge, then all the way over.Using the same tool make creases in the Nose Doublersand the Wing Bottom Doubler. For the Firewall Doublerand the Aft Top part run the creasing tool along each andevery pipe to ease bending.精彩内容，尽在百度攻略：WING ASSEMBLYCut the Ailerons where shown and create hinges on theouter sections using the same method as the elevator.Note that the moving part of the aileron does not extendall the way into the fuselage.
Cut the wing spars form ayardstick or other suitable material.
Using contactcement, glue the spar to the line on the bottom of thewing.
Don’t glue the tapered tip of the spar down yet – letthe wing lay flat.
Also, glue the aileron to the bottom ofthe wing overlapping up to the hinge line.Now, apply contact cement to the top of the spar, the topof the in-wing part of the aileron piece, and all around theouter edge of the wing.
Apply a nice
inch wideband.
When the glue is ready, the critical folding begins!While holding the wing bottom flat on your workbench, foldthe top over.
Start at the wing root and work toward thetip.
Try keeping the leading edge held down against thetable. Press the wing
from root to tip.Then press do again root to tip.Finally press the wing tips against the spar and squeezethem together.
If you did a good job of holding the leadingedge down against the table, you should have a niceairfoil with a slight undercamber toward the trailing edge,and a few degrees of washout at the tip.Repeat the process for the other wing panel.
Trim off anyoverhang at the tips and trailing edge.
Make sure that theailerons move freely.It is easiest to install the torque rods before joining thewing panels.
Refer to the detail on sheet 1 of the plans.
Iuse a 4-40 pushrod, (which is about 3/32 in diameter with4-40 threads on one end).
Since the rod would be tooloose in the corrugation by itself, make a bearing out ofhard balsa.
1/8 X 3/16 balsa fits snugly into thecorrugation. Drill a 3/32 hole in a piece 1
to 2 incheslong and glue in place.
Cut a hole in the top wing surfaceabout
inch from the edge for the torque rod exit.
Bendthe threaded end at a right angle and slide the rod into thebearing.
Create a notch (about
“ deep) in the edge ofthe aileron by removing the inner webbing.
Bend theouter end of the torque rod and cut off the excess.
Gluethe rod into the aileron notch with GOOP, and tape aroundthe edge with packing tape.Cut out the three dihedral braces, shown on sheet 1, from1/8 plywood (not lite ply).
Add scrap balsa fillers to theends of the mid brace as shown in the drawing.
Since thespars come together at an angle these fillers make for abetter fit.
Check the fit of the wing panels with the bracesin place – trim as needed for a good fit. The mid bracegoes against the front of the spar.
Slide the aft braceback to where it is slightly snug in the wing withoutcreating a bulge.
The forward brace goes as close to theleading edge as possible.
Using polyurethane glue,moisten the edges of the braces and glue into one of thewing panels.
Make sure that the braces extend from thepanel at right angles to the wing centerline.When the glue is dry, moisten the extending braces edgesand the mating edge of the wing, and glue the wingtogether with polyurethane glue.
Prop up the wing tipsuntil the glue dries. Make a servo cutout in the top of the wing, at thecenterline and just forward of the aft brace.
Glue smallpieces of ply or hard wood to hold the servo screws. Trimabout 1/8 inch off the center leading edge of the wing,forming a flat area to better fit the fuselage.
Lay the winginto the fuse and trim the trailing edge center area for agood fit. Using contact cement glue the 2mm Wing CenterDoublers to the top and bottom of the wing center line.
Toprevent rubber bands from crushing the trailing edge, glue1/8 X 3/16 balsa pieces into the wing trailing edgecorrugations in the area of rubber band contact.精彩内容，尽在百度攻略：FUSELAGE COMPLETIONGlue the 2mm Firewall Doubler immediately behind thefirewall using contact cement.
After moistening the area,run a bead of polyurethane glue around the firewall-fuselage joint, forming a glue filet around the front andback of the firewall.Install the Aft Top fuselage piece.
Use contact cement toattach the part to F5A and F6 and GOOP where the partattaches to the fuselage.
I like to add
1/2 “ wide strips of2mm material to the inside of the joint between theformers for strength and a smoother appearance.精彩内容，尽在百度攻略：Trim the wing saddle area for a good wing fit.
With thewing installed, test fit the stabilizer and fin assembly.Make sure the tail is straight with the wing. The stableading edge should be tight against F6. Remove the wingand glue the tail in place using GOOP. Push the aft topfuselage up against the fin for a good smooth fit.Before attaching the fuselage Aft Bottom section, installthe elevator horn and pushrod. Drilling a hole through thefuse at F6 allows a completely straight pushrodinstallation.
Before installing the control horn onto theelevator, push a couple of short pieces of balsa into thecorrugation pipes to avoid crushing by the horn screws.Now, glue the Aft Bottom onto the fuse with GOOP.The Forward Bottom fuselage section is next.
Use GOOPand securely tape the nose section inward until the gluedries.The Nose Doublers are attached to the inside of theengine area with contact cement.
Bend the doublersinward as you install them to give the fuselage nose amore rounded appearance.
Trim the plastic around theengine compartment to fit your engine.精彩内容，尽在百度攻略：Use contact cement to glue in the Wing Saddle Doublers.Trim them to the same profile as the fuse sides to providea close fit for the wing.
Since the plastic wing tends toslide around easily in the saddle, I usually apply SiliconeSealer (RTV) to the saddle.
Simply tape plastic wrap tothe wing, apply a nice bead of RTV to the wing saddle,attach the wing with a few rubber bands, and let dryovernight.FINAL ASSEMBLYUse packing tape (or covering trim strips of theappropriate color) to cover the open pipes along theleading edge of the stab and fin.
Also cover the seamsalong the aft top fuse and fuse bottom pieces – to give theplane a finished look.
Tape the edges of the nose area tokeep fuel out.
Then, coat the engine compartment with athin coat of epoxy to fuel proof everything.精彩内容，尽在百度攻略：The canopy is an off-the-shelf 11-inch WWII design (SigManufacturing Co. #SIGWC811).
Cut it down to 6.75” asshown on the plans. Paint it as desired and glue in placeusing GOOP.
The front of the canopy is 3 5/8” forward ofF5, the back is 3 1/8” aft of F5.Install the servo tray between F3 and F4.
The holesshown are sized for Hitec HS-80 servos – adjust them asneeded for your servos.
Glue scrap balsa rails to theformers to support the tray, and add hard wood strips forthe servo screws.精彩内容，尽在百度攻略：Install the engine and throttle linkage. The hole in F2 issized for a Hayes 6 oz fuel tank.
Wrap the battery andreceiver in foam and install behind and beside the tank (orwhere needed for proper balance).The center of gravity (CG) is 3
1/4 ” back from the leadingedge of the wing – measured where the wing meets thefuselage.Set the control throw on the elevator to about 3/8” in eachdirection.
Set the ailerons to about 3/8” each way too.Measure the throws at the widest part of the controlsurface.精彩内容，尽在百度攻略：If the elevator or aileron hinges are too stiff for smooth,twist free operation, cut
1/2 ” slots every inch or so down thehinge centerline.FLYINGHave someone launch the plane for you for its first flight.Once you have the plane trimmed, it is easy to self launch.I grab hold of the aft wing dowel from under the fuse anduse an overhand throw.精彩内容，尽在百度攻略：I’m sure that you will enjoy the MiG-7.
It is the best flyingscale combat plane I’ve flown so far.
So, go out and cut afew streamers!David WestVer 1.0
7/28/00Mikoyan-Gurevich MiG-7 Construction Notes精彩内容，尽在百度攻略：The Mikoyan-Gurevich MiG-7 was a World War II era,Russian, fighter.
Its fuselage was similar to themore popular MiG-1 and MiG-3.
However, itswing was made much larger to fulfill its role asa high altitude interceptor.
This increasedwing area makes itan ideal subjectfor 1/12 scalecombat.The model’s outlineis true to 1/12 scalewith the exception that the wing has beenenlarged by 5%, further improving its flyingcharacteristics.
This makes it legal for boththe 2105 and 2610 classes of RCCAcombat.精彩内容，尽在百度攻略：Corrugated plastic, known by the trade nameCoroplast(R), is the primary constructionmaterial.
While not indestructible, this doesproduce a tough airplane that will withstand all but themost brutal mid-airs and crashes.
In addition the materialis extremely inexpensive and lends itself to fast assembly.fuse and tail.
With careful planning you can build sixplanes from one 4 X 8 foot sheet of each thickness.
Youcan buy green Coroplast for the common MiG-7 schemeor white for the Russian winter paint scheme.
If you havethe 4 X 8 sheets cut to 2 X 4 for UPS shipping, make surethe corrugation pipes (or “flutes”) run the LONG (4 ft)dimension.精彩内容，尽在百度攻略：Most glues don’t stick very well to Coroplast(R), so if youanything use other than the suggested glues, make sureto test them first.
I use Dap Weldwood(R) Contact cementfor most of the assembly – spread it on eachsurface, wait 15 minutes (or up to 2 hours),and stick the parts together.
“GOOP” or“Shoe Goo” is good for visible areas andthose that need a little filling.
Polyurethane glue(like Elmer’s “Probond”) is used for strength in the wingjoiners and the firewall.
This glue requires moisture toactivate and expands as it sets.精彩内容，尽在百度攻略：CONSTRUCTIONStarting with the 4mm parts on sheet 3, cut the templatesfrom the plans.
Arrange the templates on the 4mmCoroplast sheet making sure that the pipe directions areas indicated.
Temporarily tape the templates down andtrace their outline with a fine point permanent marker.Use a pin to mark the intersections of internal lines andconnect the marks after removing the templates.
Makesure to make a second copy of the Aileron and SaddleDoubler parts.PLANS AND TEMPLATES精彩内容，尽在百度攻略：This plane is built differently from most R/C andas such has unconventional plans.
Instead of views thatyou build the model over, there are a series of templatesthat you cut out and trace onto the plastic.
The plansconsist of three “D” size (22 X 34) sheets.
A “.dxf” file isprovided for those with CAD systems and access to largeformat plotters.
A “.pdf” file is also provided containing thethree full-size sheets.
You can print these at reduced(letter) size as a guide to the larger plans, send them to alarge format printer, or print small and enlarge.
The plansare also available as tiled “.pdf” files for each sheet.
Eachsheet is divided into eight letter sized (8
X 11) pages.You can print them out and tape the pages together tomake the plans.
It’s more work, but it’s cheap!
Whatevermethod you use, take care that the printer, plotter, orcopier does not distort or incorrectly size the plan.
Eachsheet has a 6-inch scale drawn on it – check it with a ruler.MATERIALS AND GLUESCoroplast(R) is inexpensive (about $7.50 for an 4 X 8 footsheet) but can be a little hard to find.
Try local sign supplyshops, artist supply stores, or industrial supply houses.On the web:
has more informationand numbers to call is a large distributor.精彩内容，尽在百度攻略：You will need a 2 X 3 ft. piece of 2mm material for thewings and a 20 X 30 inch piece of 4mm material for theCut out the Fin and Stabilizer parts using a sharp X-actoknife. Glue a stop onto a #11 knife blade so that the pointwill only penetrate through the top surface of theCoroplast.
Use this to slice away the bottom of acorrugation pipe at the stabilizer hinge line, leaving the topsurface in tact to act as a hinge.
Glue the Fin to theStabilizer with GOOP, making sure that the tab on the finfits fully into the slot in the stab.
Set the assembly up onsmall boxes or blocks to insure that the parts are精彩内容，尽在百度攻略：perpendicular, and allow to dry.FUSELAGEUse the special knife, described above, to cut through thesurface of each pipe in the indicated areas of the fuselage.Make sure you do not cut all the way through.
I usuallymake these cuts, with the aid of a straight edge, beforecutting the fuselage outline from the sheet.
Cut out thefuselage outline.
You can use a standard hole punch tomake the
1/4 ” holes for the wing hold down dowels.精彩内容，尽在百度攻略：Cut the fuselage former templates from sheet 1 of theplans and glue them onto wood with rubber cement or 3M77.
The Firewall is 3/16 hard plywood.
F5A and F5B arestiff 1/16 balsa.
The other formers can be 1/8 light ply ortwo laminated sheets of
1/16 balsa glued with the grain at90 degrees.
The latter is lighter and stronger, but takes alittle longer to make.
After cutting out the wood, you canleave the paper in place or remove it.
If you do removethe plan paper, make sure to mark the vertical center linesfor alignment later.
Glue F5A and F5B to the top of F5, asindicated on the plans.
Drill holes in the firewall for theengine mount, throttle linkage, and fuel lines.Test fit the formers into the fuselage plastic making surethat the plastic curves smoothly over the formers’ curves.Now, lay the fuse flat and apply contact cement along allthe former alignment lines.
Spread the cement at least
1/4 inch wide to allow for minor misalignment.
Apply contactcement to the formers.
I use a small squeeze bottle toapply the glue to the former edges.
Let the glue dry for atleast 15 minutes.
Then, stick the firewall and F2 to thecenterline and carefully pull the plastic part way aroundthem.
Add F3 and F5, again making sure the centerlinemark on the formers aligns with the centerline of theplastic.
Continue pulling the fuse sides up and intocontact with the formers.
Insert F4 and F6 to complete thefold up.
Wrap masking tape around the firewall, F2 andF5 to pull the plastic tight against the formers.
1/4 hardwood wing hold down dowels.
Glue these securely toF2 and F5.
We will return to the fuselage after the wingassembly.精彩内容，尽在百度攻略：2MM PARTSCut out the templates on sheet 2 of the plans.
Arrange,trace, and cut out the 2mm parts.
Be sure to make aLEFT and a RIGHT wing by flipping the template over(print side down).
Again transfer the guide lines and foldlines onto the plastic.
And again, make sure the pipes areorientated as indicated.The fold line on the wings runs perpendicular to the pipes.Crease (but do not cut) the line with a pointy but bluntobject (like a Philips head screwdriver).
Another tool thatworks well is the roller used for repairing screens.
Use astraight edge to insure the crease line is straight.
Fold thewing over a table top edge, then all the way over.精彩内容，尽在百度攻略：Using the same tool make creases in the Nose Doublersand the Wing Bottom Doubler. For the Firewall Doublerand the Aft Top part run the creasing tool along each andevery pipe to ease bending.WING ASSEMBLYCut the Ailerons where shown and create hinges on the精彩内容，尽在百度攻略：精彩内容，尽在百度攻略：outer sections using the same method as the elevator.Note that the moving part of the aileron does not extendall the way into the fuselage.
Cut the wing spars form ayardstick or other suitable material.
Using contactcement, glue the spar to the line on the bottom of thewing.
Don’t glue the tapered tip of the spar down yet – letthe wing lay flat.
Also, glue the aileron to the bottom ofthe wing overlapping up to the hinge line.Now, apply contact cement to the top of the spar, the topof the in-wing part of the aileron piece, and all around theouter edge of the wing.
Apply a nice
inch wideband.
When the glue is ready, the critical folding begins!精彩内容，尽在百度攻略：While holding the wing bottom flat on your workbench, foldthe top over.
Start at the wing root and work toward thetip.
Try keeping the leading edge held down against thetable. Press the wing
from root to tip.Then press do again root to tip.Finally press the wing tips against the spar and squeezethem together.
If you did a good job of holding the leadingedge down against the table, you should have a niceairfoil with a slight undercamber toward the trailing edge,and a few degrees of washout at the tip.Repeat the process for the other wing panel.
Trim off anyoverhang at the tips and trailing edge.
Make sure that theailerons move freely.It is easiest to install the torque rods before joining thewing panels.
Refer to the detail on sheet 1 of the plans.
Iuse a 4-40 pushrod, (which is about 3/32 in diameter with4-40 threads on one end).
Since the rod would be tooloose in the corrugation by itself, make a bearing out ofhard balsa.
1/8 X 3/16 balsa fits snugly into thecorrugation. Drill a 3/32 hole in a piece 1
to 2 incheslong and glue in place.
Cut a hole in the top wing surfaceabout
inch from the edge for the torque rod exit.
Bendthe threaded end at a right angle and slide the rod into thebearing.
Create a notch (about
“ deep) in the edge ofthe aileron by removing the inner webbing.
Bend theouter end of the torque rod and cut off the excess.
Gluethe rod into the aileron notch with GOOP, and tape aroundthe edge with packing tape.精彩内容，尽在百度攻略：Cut out the three dihedral braces, shown on sheet 1, from1/8 plywood (not lite ply).
Add scrap balsa fillers to theends of the mid brace as shown in the drawing.
Since thespars come together at an angle these fillers make for abetter fit.
Check the fit of the wing panels with the bracesin place – trim as needed for a good fit. The mid bracegoes against the front of the spar.
Slide the aft braceback to where it is slightly snug in the wing withoutcreating a bulge.
The forward brace goes as close to theleading edge as possible.
Using polyurethane glue,moisten the edges of the braces and glue into one of thewing panels.
Make sure that the braces extend from thepanel at right angles to the wing centerline.When the glue is dry, moisten the extending braces edgesand the mating edge of the wing, and glue the wingtogether with polyurethane glue.
Prop up the wing tipsuntil the glue dries.Make a servo cutout in the top of the wing, at thecenterline and just forward of the aft brace.
Glue smallpieces of ply or hard wood to hold the servo screws. Trimabout 1/8 inch off the center leading edge of the wing,forming a flat area to better fit the fuselage.
Lay the winginto the fuse and trim the trailing edge center area for agood fit. Using contact cement glue the 2mm Wing CenterDoublers to the top and bottom of the wing center line.
To精彩内容，尽在百度攻略：精彩内容，尽在百度攻略：prevent rubber bands from crushing the trailing edge, glue1/8 X 3/16 balsa pieces into the wing trailing edgecorrugations in the area of rubber band contact.FUSELAGE COMPLETION精彩内容，尽在百度攻略：Glue the 2mm Firewall Doubler immediately behind thefirewall using contact cement.
After moistening the area,run a bead of polyurethane glue around the firewall-fuselage joint, forming a glue filet around the front andback of the firewall.Install the Aft Top fuselage piece.
Use contact cement toattach the part to F5A and F6 and GOOP where the partattaches to the fuselage.
I like to add
1/2 “ wide strips of2mm material to the inside of the joint between theformers for strength and a smoother appearance.Trim the wing saddle area for a good wing fit.
With thewing installed, test fit the stabilizer and fin assembly.Make sure the tail is straight with the wing. The stableading edge should be tight against F6. Remove the wingand glue the tail in place using GOOP. Push the aft topfuselage up against the fin for a good smooth fit.精彩内容，尽在百度攻略：Before attaching the fuselage Aft Bottom section, installthe elevator horn and pushrod. Drilling a hole through thefuse at F6 allows a completely straight pushrodinstallation.
Before installing the control horn onto theelevator, push a couple of short pieces of balsa into thecorrugation pipes to avoid crushing by the horn screws.Now, glue the Aft Bottom onto the fuse with GOOP.The Forward Bottom fuselage section is next.
Use GOOPand securely tape the nose section inward until the gluedries.The Nose Doublers are attached to the inside of theengine area with contact cement.
Bend the doublersinward as you install them to give the fuselage nose amore rounded appearance.
Trim the plastic around theengine compartment to fit your engine.精彩内容，尽在百度攻略：Use contact cement to glue in the Wing Saddle Doublers.Trim them to the same profile as the fuse sides to providea close fit for the wing.
Since the plastic wing tends toslide around easily in the saddle, I usually apply SiliconeSealer (RTV) to the saddle.
Simply tape plastic wrap tothe wing, apply a nice bead of RTV to the wing saddle,attach the wing with a few rubber bands, and let dryovernight.FINAL ASSEMBLYUse packing tape (or covering trim strips of theappropriate color) to cover the open pipes along theleading edge of the stab and fin.
Also cover the seamsalong the aft top fuse and fuse bottom pieces – to give theplane a finished look.
Tape the edges of the nose area tokeep fuel out.
Then, coat the engine compartment with athin coat of epoxy to fuel proof everything.精彩内容，尽在百度攻略：The canopy is an off-the-shelf 11-inch WWII design (SigManufacturing Co. #SIGWC811).
Cut it down to 6.75” asshown on the plans. Paint it as desired and glue in placeusing GOOP.
The front of the canopy is 3 5/8” forward ofF5, the back is 3 1/8” aft of F5.Install the servo tray between F3 and F4.
The holesshown are sized for Hitec HS-80 servos – adjust them as精彩内容，尽在百度攻略：needed for your servos.
Glue scrap balsa rails to the精彩内容，尽在百度攻略：formers to support the tray, and add hard wood strips forthe servo screws.Install the engine and throttle linkage. The hole in F2 issized for a Hayes 6 oz fuel tank.
Wrap the battery andreceiver in foam and install behind and beside the tank (orwhere needed for proper balance).精彩内容，尽在百度攻略：The center of gravity (CG) is 3
1/4 ” back from the leadingedge of the wing – measured where the wing meets thefuselage.Set the control throw on the elevator to about 3/8” in eachdirection.
Set the ailerons to about 3/8” each way too.Measure the throws at the widest part of the controlsurface.If the elevator or aileron hinges are too stiff for smooth,twist free operation, cut
1/2 ” slots every inch or so down thehinge centerline.精彩内容，尽在百度攻略：FLYINGHave someone launch the plane for you for its first flight.Once you have the plane trimmed, it is easy to self launch.I grab hold of the aft wing dowel from under the fuse anduse an overhand throw.I’m sure that you精彩内容，尽在百度攻略：will enjoy theMiG-7.
It is thebest flying scale精彩内容，尽在百度攻略：combat planeI’ve flown so far.So, go out and精彩内容，尽在百度攻略：cut a fewstreamers!David West精彩内容，尽在百度攻略：Ver 1.0
体育运动-相关攻略推荐
体育运动-综合攻略